
Hey, all. As you may have surmised from an earlier post, I found an amazing violin for cheap at the local flea market last month. It had issues that needed the attention of a luthier, and I didn’t have the tools, skills, or know-how to repair it. It would have easily cost several hundred dollars to have its issues addressed.
I wanted to learn how to fix a violin but didn’t want to start on that del Gésu clone. It was just way too nice. But I had an idea. What if I found an obviously broken, but repairable, cheaper instrument on eBay or something? An instrument made of quality materials with potential? I roped in my resident eBay expert and asked her to find me something good, but cheap.
Within ten minutes, she had a great candidate, an early 20th-century Strad clone. A run-of-the-mill fiddle, nothing special, with an obvious large crack. It was listed as 75 bucks and 25 shipping. I looked as hard as possible at the provided images and asked her to buy it. It seemed doable, and I wouldn’t cry if I messed it up.
My learner fiddle showed up a few days later, and I unboxed it. I sighed. Lemme tell you, there is no substitute for handling something used that you want to buy. Yes, it did have the large crack I was looking for to gain experience. It also had a crooked and glued-in-place end button, a thick coat of varnish complete with runs, a terrible fingerboard, many smaller cracks not visible on the online auction images, the list went on.
I would have passed if I had found this at a flea market table. Too much work! But as it was, I was committed and re-learned the lesson about bidding on a “deal.” So, I started the process.

The first thing you do with one of these is to strip the old furniture. By “furniture,” I mean easily removable items such as the chinrest, the pegs, and the tailpiece. A lot of times, this stuff is total junk. Worn out by a lifetime of playing and unsalvageable. That was pretty much the case here. Also, you can see the dead obvious crack and an earlier repair. This violin was a good candidate. It was time to get to work.

I watched a bunch of YouTube, a luthier named Olaf in particular. The man is a genius. You can easily find his stuff posted there. Funny and informative.
The first step was to remove the top plate- this is why you NEVER use wood glue on an instrument. Traditional hide glue will release when moistened or pressed. Modern wood glue will not. Fortunately, the last person who had this apart used the correct glue, and with some missteps and patience, I could work a butter knife around the edge to remove the plate.
This is what I saw on the inside.

The interior of the violin was filthy, of course, and worse yet the varnish applied during its previous “restoration” had run in thick streams through the f holes and into the interior of the violin. I’m sure that did wonders for the tone. Also, I could clearly see that the end button was crooked as hell and glued in place. End buttons should never be glued in place. In addition, I don’t know what the hell that thing is where a proper bass bar should be, but I knew right away I would have to fabricate a new bass bar.
This would surely add days to the project. I was right because it did.
After the assessment, it was time to start the repairs. The first step was to stabilize the major cracks. You do this by gluing them and applying special luthier’s clamps. Observe.

The clamps, which are violin specific, worked like a charm. The cracks pulled together nicely, and I walked away as the glue dried. You’d think this would be the end of it, but it’s not.

On the inner side of the plate, you must install a series of wooden gussets. Luthiers call them cleats. They are made of spruce, and they look like thin section pyramids with blunt noses. You glue them along the line of the crack to reinforce the split. I made and installed sixteen of them on this much-abused antique. Check it out.

Each crack gets at least one cleat unless it’s an edge crack that doesn’t extend past the purfling. Those can be fixed by just working some glue into them and clamping them tight.
The repairs took a long time, but I got them done. It was time to move on to the dreaded bass bar. Boy, did that suck.
A slowdown on the project has been waiting on parts and sourcing the right stuff. One such thing was getting properly sized, good-quality spruce stock for the cleats and the bass bar. You can’t use the crap you find at the hardware store. Balsa wood, pine, or poplar don’t cut it. You must use spruce- and for the bass bar, you must use tight-grained spruce. Real luthiers use the same wood they fashioned the top plate from for optimum tone, but obviously, that wasn’t a consideration here, so I did what I could.
How do you make a bass bar? It turns out that there are a million possibilities. I ended up settling for a standard design that a German fellow helpfully posted on the internet, plus I tore apart the del Gésu to see what an actual bass bar looked like. See below.

This is what a quality bass bar and unmolested top plate looks like. By the way, I took the time to blow the del Gésu apart and repair it between working on the eBay fiddle. I gained confidence from Project 001. Therefore I figured I could handle the nice violin. Plus, I needed to see a real bass bar. But I digress.
There are formulas that you use for the length (7/9 the body length) as well as the angle of the bar. It’s hard to see, but the bar is very slightly canted, with the end facing the top block being closer to the centerline of the instrument by a few millimeters. Also, there are standard heights along the bar that you should meet, with the tallest part of the bar being centered on the f-hole notches. The bar should be tapered, with the thinnest section under the bridge.
Told you there was a lot to it, more of an art than a science. I did my best.
But first, after the layout, the trim to length and width (6mm), and the measurement, the bar must be precisely fitted to the plate. See below.

This is where you start, with a hunk of wood cut to the proper length and sanded to the correct width. I must say that fitting the bar to the plate was by far the crappiest part and an experience I am loathe to repeat. Holy cow did this take forever.
I chalk-fit the bar- you lay down chalk dust on the plate and rub the bar back and forth. Where it touches, you trim it carefully with a razor knife. Rinse, wash, repeat. You do this endlessly until the bar fits completely flush with the plate. And yes, you have to ensure that the bar is at a 90-degree angle to the flat plane of the plate, which is curved where the bar touches. See below.

This is a little past halfway through the process. I had a pile of wood shavings at my feet. But at last, victory. It was time to brush off the dust and glue.

Looks pretty simple, but it’s not. Lord, was this a pain to clamp down. And by the way, you must not warp the plate! I glued it, then walked away.
In the meantime, I had to deal with that lousy fingerboard. Once again, YouTube. Turns out that if you mess around with the butter knife, it’ll pop right off, leaving cruddy glue clumps and shards of wood behind. These need to be removed without marring the fingerboard base on the neck- it’s a precision fit. See below.

You can get the old crud from the neck by molding a damp paper towel to the fingerboard seat. Wait ten minutes, then scrape the crud off with an old credit card. Do this over and over until the seat is clean.
The bass bar dried, then it was time to shape it vertically and horizontally. I did this with an exacto knife and sandpaper until I got the desired shape and height.
See below.

It might not be awesome, but it sure beats where this fiddle started.

What the hell is this thing? It’s wrong in so many ways, I won’t even start. Wrong height, wrong length, wrong shape, wrong flippin’ everything! So maybe my attempt isn’t totally amazing, but it has to beat THAT, right?
I also had to trim the cross-section. The bass bar is thinnest right beneath the bridge, about 2mm, then it flares on both ends to 4mm, as well as tapering to the base of the bar. A bit of a tall order for an idiot with a razor knife and sandpaper, but I gave it a shot. See cross-section below.

At last, the repairs and the fabrication and installation of the bass bar were complete. It was time to reassemble.
I’ve been sweating this for a while. I wondered if I’d have enough time to clamp the fiddle, hide glue dries fast. I wondered if I would screw up aligning the plate. It’s possible. Hell, I even worried about the amount of glue I should use. Don’t wanna be sloppy, right? I thought it over, and then early this morning, I said “hold onto my beer and watch this,” and I just did it.
First, and this was a valuable lesson learned from other projects, I rehearsed how I wanted to clamp the violin. This was helpful and allowed me to work quickly during the glue set. It was time.
I laid down a decent bead with my finger, then I settled the plate into place, carefully checking the alignment. I clamped the corner blocks first, then worked my way up to the top block. Then I did the other side. Once the violin’s top was secure, I did the bottom, ending with the bottom block. Once all clamps were set, I wiped off any excess glue with my fingertip.
It was finally glued back together.
Behold.

I know, it’s a lot of clamps. I thought I had too many, but I could have used a few more. But this works. I walked away. The glue needs to totally dry before I release the clamps.
Tomorrow, I’ll deal with this. See below.

Finish blemishes galore. Yippee!
This will take a while…
Stay tuned.




















